Discover DTLA’s Secret Underground

Did you know that deep beneath the Los Angeles Civic Center lies a system of underground tunnels? Beginning in 1901, workers dug under the Bunker and Hill Street area to create subterranean passages to help mitigate traffic on downtown’s congested streets. Pacific Electric Red Cars had their own system of tunnels, and there were many old passages under Olvera Street and Old Chinatown, some dating to the 19th century. Smaller underground service passages were used to link various buildings around downtown. Although tunnel tours are not available at this time due to health concerns, you can still view the exteriors of some of the most notorious buildings near Circa, such as Coles, Hotel Rosslyn, and the King Eddy Saloon.

Los Angeles Tunnels secret underground near Circa apartments in Downtown Los Angeles

By the 1920s, many of these underground spaces fell into disuse, including Pacific Electric’s network of tunnels and old subterranean equestrian passages. During Prohibition, this underground warren was commandeered by opportunistic bootleggers. In addition, some 11 miles of service tunnels became passageways to basement speakeasies with innocent-looking store fronts above ground. The Hotel Rosslyn had a basement bar and a marble-lined tunnel beneath 5th Street so that customers could discreetly come and go.

Los Angeles Hall of Records secret underground near Circa apartments in Downtown Los Angeles

The tunnels that currently run under the Hall of Records and Hall of Administration were often used to run booze, and also kept captured bootleggers and gangsters away from the eyes and cameras of the photographers up top. It was rumored that the tunnels were even used by coroners and mobsters to store bodies.

The Edison Lounge secret underground near Circa apartments in Downtown Los Angeles

With nowhere to go for a drink in public, people turned to speakeasies to get their buzz. Some of DTLA’s oldest bars, including the King Eddy Saloon and Cole’s the Original French Dip, had their day of infamy as speakeasies and havens for mobsters. Most speakeasies required a secret code in order to enter. A word was whispered through a small slit in a wooden door in a shady back alley, allowing the patrons inside.

Los Angele Tunnels secret underground near Circa apartments in Downtown Los Angeles

The corruption went beyond mere mobsters, all the way to City Hall, where Mayor Cryer’s office ran the supply of hootch. Local politicians, the LAPD, and their cronies were all complicit in the bootleg trade. Things escalated during the 1925 mayor election, which pitted the incumbent Cryer against a candidate favored by Harry Chandler, publisher of the Los Angeles Times. Cryer won the election, which triggered a series of exposes from the Los Angeles Times on the inner workings of “the City Hall Gang.” Prohibition lost its popularity and was repealed in 1933. The remaining bootleggers and gamblers in Los Angeles left for Las Vegas, where they became the city’s “founding fathers.” 

King Eddy Saloon secret underground near Circa apartments in Downtown Los Angeles

King Eddy Saloon 131 E 5th St. Los Angeles, CA 90013

Known as one of downtown LA’s legendary dive bars, The King Eddy opened as the high-class King Edward Hotel in 1906. During Prohibition, The King Eddy opened a speakeasy in its basement, while operating the upstairs as a piano store front on the street. Luckily, local officials took no issue with The King Eddy’s sudden interest in music, and the speakeasy business took off. Today, the basement still remains part of the old bootlegger tunnel system, littered with crumbling brick lines and graffiti murals.

Cole's French Dip secret underground near Circa apartments in Downtown Los Angeles

Cole’s French Dip 118 E 6th St. Los Angeles, CA 90014

Cole’s, Originator of the French Dip Sandwich, opened in 1908 on the bottom floor of the 10-story Pacific Electric building, which was LA’s tallest skyscraper in the early 1900s and for years the terminus for the Red Car trolley line. During Prohibition, Cole’s was a favorite hangout for gangsters like Mickey Cohen (If you were a regular customer, your “coffee” came with a little something extra!). The late Jimmy Barela, who tended bar at Cole’s for 56 years, substituted bitters (at 3 cents a shot) and “near beer” (at a dime a glass) for the real stuff. Founder Henry Cole also operated Los Angeles’s first check cashing service from the restaurant. Cole was later arrested in 1942 by the Federal Government for fraud.

The Edison Lounge secret underground near Circa apartments in Downtown Los Angeles

The Edison 108 W 2nd St. Los Angeles, CA 90012

The Edison is located in the sub-basement of the historic Higgins Building, the site of a revolutionary private power plant designed to signal a new future for Downtown Los Angeles. After spending many years neglected and underwater, the building was finally rescued by entrepreneurs Andrew Meieran and Marc Smith, who opened The Edison in 2007, a post-industrial steampunk-styled nightclub in the building’s basement.Today the space retains many of the power plant’s architectural and mechanical artifacts which are incorporated in The Edison’s interior design.

The Millennium Biltmore Hotel Gold Room secret underground near Circa apartments in Downtown Los Angeles

The Millennium Biltmore Hotel 506 S Grand Ave. Los Angeles, CA 90071

During the Prohibition era, The Millennium Biltmore Hotel’s famous Gold Room served as a speakeasy and nightclub, complete with a hidden door to help revelers avoid police and paparazzi with an escape onto Olive Street. The door is still there, connecting to a room that has a wooden counter top, coat hooks and bathroom. Although the exit to Olive St. has been sealed in brick, you can still see a small “paparazzi window” in the corner of the ballroom ceiling. 

Sources: KCET and Atlas Obscura

Photo credits:

Photo #1: Cole’s French Dip

Photo #2: Atlas Obscura/Alyssa Walker

Photo #3: Atlas Obscura

Photo #4: The Edison

Photo #5: Atlas Obscura/Alyssa Walker

Photo #6: King Eddy Saloon/LA Downtowner

Photo #7: Coles French Dip

Photo #8: The Edison

Photo #9: The Millennium Biltmore Hotel

Calling All Carnivores! Where to Get Your Protein Fix in DTLA

Let’s face it, sometimes you just want to sink your teeth into a juicy burger or succulent steak! Go ahead and indulge your carnivorous cravings. Meat has all the nine essential amino acids you need in order to build and rebuild every cell in your body. A satisfying meat-a-palooza also makes you feel better, by boosting pleasure-inducing dopamine and soothing serotonin.

Whether you prefer a classic burger, hearty Brazilian-style feast, smoky BBQ chow-down, or an elegant steakhouse dinner, you can eat your fill of meaty goodness in DTLA. Meat not your thing, but you still want to tag along with your friends? You’ll never starve in this town! Scan the menu for fresh salads, veggie burgers, healthy sides – and save room for dessert!

Cassells

Cassell’s Hamburgers DTLA 421 W 8th St, Los Angeles, CA 90014

Fans of Cassell’s Hamburgers in mid-Wilshire have reason to rejoice! Late last year, founders Christian Page, Jingbo Lou, and Elia Aboumrad completed their takeover of the former Pellicola Pizzeria in Downtown LA, conveniently located right next to the iconic Golden Gopher bar. Cassell’s downtown outpost features their renowned patty melt, along with some new menu items, such as chicken cutlet sandwich on ciabatta roll, hoagie with nitrate-free meats and provolone, and ice cream shakes using McConnell’s ice cream.

H&H Brazilian

H&H Brazilian Steakhouse 518 W 7th St, Los Angeles, CA 90014

H&H Brazilian Steakhouse is a new take on Brazilian food, brimming with healthful recipes. The restaurant was founded by Henrique Huyer with the mission of bringing authentic, traditional Brazilian barbecue from Rio Grande do Sul, Brazil. to the American market. H&H is committed to working with only the best suppliers, serving top-quality organic, grass-fed meat and local produce that you can enjoy with unique wines from South America. The menu caters to nearly every food preference with a variety of beef, lamb, pork and chicken dishes. The extensive salad bar presents gluten-free, naturally organic, vegetarian and vegan offerings as well.

brisket

L.A. Brisket 736 N Broadway, Los Angeles, CA 90012

A popular destination originating in Artesia, L.A. Brisket recently opened a spiffy brick-and-mortar location in Chinatown. The restaurant specializes in hand crafted snadwiches loaded with all natural meat sold by the pound, with house BBQ sauce and bread. The menu offers brisket, chicken, pulled pork, pork ribs, and BBQ Bowls served with LA slaw, salsa verde, garlic, and jasmine rice. Sides include elote (grilled Mexican corn), French fries, truffle fries, and sweet potato fries.

Moos

Moo’s Craft BBQ at Smorgasburg 787 S Alameda St, Los Angeles, CA 90021

Perhaps the best underground barbecue cooking in Los Angeles, Moo’s Craft Barbecue is smoking up a storm every Sunday at Smorgasburg ROW DTLA. The Texas-styled menu includes classics like ribs and brisket, with owners Michelle and Andrew Muñoz at the helm. Launched in June of 2016, Smorgasburg LA has become the largest weekly open-air food market in Los Angeles, attracting 8,000 to 12,000 attendees every Sunday, year round. Located on the five-acre site of the weekday 7th Street Produce Market in ROW DTLA, Smorgasburg LA features over 90 food vendors, a beer garden offering local craft beer and micheladas, live DJs, cultural events, pop-ups, and sophisticated shopping including design, craft, style, vintage, wellness, and more. Sundays, 10 AM – 4 PM. Sorry, no pets allowed.

Love Hour

Love Hour at  Smorgasburg 787 S Alameda St, Los Angeles, CA 90021

While you’re at  Smorgasburg, be sure to stop by Love Hour – featuring the smash-style patty that has become the new standard for street and backyard pop ups around town. The first permanent burger tent at Smorgasburg, Love Hour offers a minimalist menu comprised of single and double patty smash burgers and fries. The meat is pressed thin and cooked on a grill at a high heat, which sears in the flavor and creates a delicious crusty exterior.

Belcampo Meat Co., butcher shop and restaurant at Grand Central Market, Los Angeles, CA.

Belcampo Meat Grand Central Market 317 S Broadway, Los Angeles, CA 90013

Part country cafe and part full-service butcher shop, Belcampo Meat presents organic, grass-fed meats that have been raised on their own 10,000 acre ranch near Mount Shasta, and custom-butchered in house. Grab a seat at their modern-meets-retro counter service diner for breakfast or lunch. Indulge in the signature organic grass-fed burgers while people watching and enjoying a glass of beer or wine. Or stop by after work to pick up their ever-changing rotation of Grab & Go foods, or convenient reheat & eat options to bring home for dinner.

La Boucherie

La Boucherie 900 Wilshire Blvd Fl 71 Los Angeles, CA 90017

Elevate your evening with an unforgettable dinner at La Boucherie at the InterContinental Los Angeles Downtown, which occupies 37 floors of the Wilshire Grand Center. The Wine Spectator award-winning steakhouse offers breathtaking panoramic views of Los Angeles and a delectable menu featuring reimagined dishes,  premium steaks, and first-rate seafood sourced from around the globe. The restaurant also features a cheese cave and charcuterie atelier, complemented by offerings from the extensive, award-winning wine list of 1,200 different types, all of which can be enjoyed from the comfort of private dining rooms or discrete Starlight Booths.

Coles

Cole’s French Dip 118 E 6th St, Los Angeles, CA 90014

Cole’s, Originator of the French Dip Sandwich, opened in 1908 in the Pacific Electric building. Evoking the spirit of an early 20th century saloon, the welcoming 40-foot Red Car Bar boasts original glass lighting, penny tile floors, and historic photos, preserved in the restoration of the cherished landmark. During Prohibition, Cole’s was a favorite hangout for gangsters like Mickey Cohen (If you were a regular customer, your “coffee” came with a little something extra!). Today, continuing the tradition of the Golden Age of American cocktails, the Red Car Bar’s ample selection of premium spirits, drafts, and historic cocktails compliment the saloon’s classic French Dip sandwiches, appetizers, salads and sides.

Discover DTLA’s Secret Bars & Speakeasies

Every city has its secrets and Downtown LA is no exception. If you dare to veer off the beaten path, you’ll discover a hidden world lurking beneath historic buildings, down mysterious staircases, behind old wooden walls, and in the dark recesses of derelict parking lots. Once you figure out how to get into these arcane spaces, you’ll be greeted by intriguing offerings like exotic craft cocktails, sumptuous Art Deco interiors, cool retro decor, groovin’ entertainment, and even arcade games. It’s time to lift the veil and discover DTLA’s secret bars and speakeasies!

the varnish

The Varnish 118 E 6th St, Los Angeles, CA 90014

If you’re hankering for that authentic speakeasy vibe, then get ye to The Varnish. Housed inside a refurbished storage room in Los Angeles’ oldest public house – Cole’s, The Originators of the French Dip Sandwich restaurant in downtown L.A. – The Varnish pays tribute to both classic and updated cocktails with a focus on thoughtful service and hospitality. Groove to live jazz and discover an unexpected memorial to Charles Bukowski in the men’s bathroom.

slipper clutch

The Slipper Clutch 1207, 351 S Broadway, Los Angeles, CA 90013

To find this rock-themed speakeasy, you’ll first have to enter Bar Clacson at 351 S. Broadway. As you walk through Clacson, look for the sign that says “Highballs” with an arrow. Follow the arrow and you’ve made it to The Slipper Clutch, a fun and wacky hideaway featuring 80s-style neon lights, pinball machines, and Pac Man arcade games. Enjoy classic cocktails amidst the glowing graffiti while rocking out to a retro soundtrack.

songbird

Songbird Cafe 900 N Broadway #1050 at Blossom Plaza, Los Angeles, CA 90012

Tucked behind Chinatown’s Blossom restaurant, Songbird is a coffee shop by day, morphing into a moody speakeasy by night. Brought to you by Scott Chen, who also operates Apt 503 in Koreatown, the cocktail program is equally exciting and ambitious. Unlike other craft cocktail programming that focuses on the more popular spirits, the Songbird bar program has a special section that focuses on bitters and amari, highlighting and featuring the depth and complexity of an often overlooked category in the cocktail kingdom. The space offers a slew of artistic driven live performances, showcasing music that canvases all genres.

The Rhythm Room

Rhythm Room 206 W 6th St BSMT, Los Angeles, CA 90014

As you descend the marble staircase into this subterranean bar oozing with history, you’ll feel transported back in time to another era. The expansive space extends over multi levels, and twists and turns into secretive little nooks and crannies. The lure of reasonably priced craft cocktails, coupled with regular live jazz, billiards, and occasional dancing has established The Rhythm Room as a popular DTLA hangout, steeped in the classic speakeasy spirit.

El Dorado

El Dorado 416 S Spring St, Los Angeles, CA 90013

Located in the basement of El Dorado Lofts in DTLA’s Historic Core, this formerly dreary space has been transformed into a chic speakeasy, replete with tufted leather booths, intimate small tables, deep mahogany-colored wallpaper with gold embellishments, and provocative paintings above the booths. Classy but not pretentious, the cocktail program features house-made bitters and syrups to create a menu that is both unusual and fun.

Birds & Bees

Birds & Bees B, Basement, 207 S Broadway, Los Angeles, CA 90012

This secluded, buzzy lounge is known for new twists on classic cocktails with a midcentury-modern flair. A word of warning before you get too excited – while Birds and Bees is located at 207 South Broadway, you have to enter from the parking lot at 215 South Broadway. After you find the door, get ready to descend into a concrete tunnel and emerge in a space that looks like a bomb shelter tricked out with mid-century modern furniture. The excellent cocktails and cool atmosphere will make it all worthwhile.

crane's bar

Crane’s Bar 810 S Spring St, Los Angeles, CA 90014

Crane’s Bar is an intimate saloon hidden away in an abandoned bank vault in the old National City Bank Building. Walk down the stairs and you’ll enter a massive door leading into the vault, to be greeted by twinkle lights, DJs, and a new cocktail menu featuring some original Crane’s favorites along with some fresh surprises. Sop by for the laughs at their monthly comedy showcase. No cover charge.

the board room

The BoardRoom 135 N Grand Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90012

Who knew! Tucked beneath the Dorothy Chandler Pavilion and hidden inside swanky Kendall’s Brasserie lies a cool craft cocktail bar. The BoardRoom celebrates an era of post-war French artistry, invention, and imagination – a lounge reserved for those who love the art of libations and the flow of song. Parking is available adjacent to The BoardRoom at The Music Center garage. Discounted rates starting at 8PM for $5.

Bar Alta

Bar Alta & Casbah Hotel Figueroa  939 S Figueroa St, Los Angeles, CA 90015

Nestled off the Hotel Figueroa lobby mezzanine, Bar Alta is a 26 seat bartender’s table cast in the warm glow of Art Deco-style and cut-glass chandeliers. Performance art meets mixology here – bartenders use tools like centrifuges and smokers to create some of DTLA’s most imaginative libations. Note that reservations are required. Ultimate discretion is the order of the day at Casbah, Bar Alta’s private room. Accessed by a sliding wooden bookcase that serves as a secret entrance from the Casablanca Suite, the space, which accommodates 50 people, is covered in mirrors and outfitted with leather, stone, natural wood, and luxe fabrics to create a one-of-a-kind, high-style hideaway.

Pacific Seas

Pacific Seas Clifton’s 648 S. Broadway Los Angeles CA 90014

Follow the secret staircase and you’ll find Pacific Seas, a tropical homage to the Golden Days of Travel. When Clifford Clinton opened the original Pacific Seas in 1932, he sought to nourish the public’s spirit, deeply demoralized by the effects of the Great Depression, believing that the intrigue of travel to far off places could give his guests a respite from their daily troubles. Today, Pacific Seas revives Clifton’s original vision. Through the Art Deco Map Room, guests find a celebration of the exotic, the mysterious, and the unknown; through a uniquely Californian take on the romance of South Seas Culture. The tiki-themed bar includes a full-sized boat, tiki-god totems, hanging lights, a rum-soaked cocktail menu, and live performances ranging from Polynesian dancers to 40s-style bands.

Delicious DTLA: Delis, Diners & Dips!

Do you ever get the urge to dive into a big juicy sandwich, stacked a mile high and dripping with gastronomic goodness? How about whiling away a lazy Saturday morning over blueberry pancakes and a fresh brewed cup o’ joe? Or do you prefer your meal with a side of noir?

DTLA is the ultimate destination for vintage diners, authentic delis, Prohibition-era eateries, and legendary French Dip spots–some even have a shady past! Delicious DTLA has many fascinating stories to reveal, told through the language of great food!

Coles

Cole’s French Dip 118 E. 6th St, Los Angeles, CA 90014

Cole’s, Originator of the French Dip Sandwich, opened in 1908 in the Pacific Electric building. Evoking the spirit of an early 20th century saloon, the welcoming 40-foot Red Car Bar boasts original glass lighting, penny tile floors, and historic photos, preserved in the restoration of the cherished landmark. During Prohibition, Cole’s was a favorite hangout for gangsters like Mickey Cohen (If you were a regular customer, your “coffee” came with a little something extra!). Today, continuing the tradition of the Golden Age of American cocktails, the Red Car Bar’s ample selection of premium spirits, drafts, and historic cocktails compliment the saloon’s classic French Dip sandwiches, appetizers, salads and sides.

Philippe

The Original Philippe 1001 North Alameda, Los Angeles, CA 90012

Philippe The Original is one of the oldest and best known restaurants in Southern California, established in 1908 by Philippe Mathieu, who claimed the distinction of having created the “French Dipped Sandwich.” One day in 1918, while making a sandwich, Mathieu inadvertently dropped the sliced french roll into the roasting pan filled with juice still hot from the oven. The patron, a policeman, said he would take the sandwich anyway and returned the next day with some friends asking for more dipped sandwiches. And so was born the “French Dipped Sandwich,” so called either because of Mathieu’s French heritage, the French roll the sandwich is made on, or because the officer’s name was French. The answer is lost to history.

plate of food at Nickels Diner

Nickel Diner 524 S. Main St, Los Angeles, CA 90013

Featured on Diners, Drive-In’s and Dives, the Cooking Channel and Jonathan Gold’s 101 List, this cozy vintage-style diner serves updated versions of old-school comfort fare, such as maple-glaze bacon doughnut, baked eggs, steak sandwich, and catfish, plus creative desserts. Located on a historic stretch of Main Street between Fifth and Sixth streets, the restaurant occupies the site of a long-forgotten diner, with the original hand-painted wall menus still intact. High ceilings, vintage wallpaper, wooden tables, scuffed tile floors, cushy red leather booths and an old-school, lunch counter-style open kitchen evoke a picture-perfect model of a pre-WWII-era diner.

Original Pantry storefront

The Original Pantry 877 S. Figueroa St, Los Angeles, CA 90017

Established in 1924, The Original Pantry has spent eight decades providing its customers with generous portions of traditional American cuisine. More than just a casual eatery, The Pantry offers diners an atmosphere rich in character and history. An integral piece of Los Angeles culture, The Pantry has served many movie stars, politicians and other celebrities and continues to be a gathering spot for the city’s movers and shakers. As The Pantry’s current owner, former Los Angeles Mayor Richard Riordan likes to boast, “We never close. We’re never without a customer.”

Nicks Cafe storefront

Nick’s Cafe 1300 N. Spring St, Los Angeles, CA 90012

Nick’s Cafe started back in 1948 by Nick, his Navy buddy, and Lois the server. Nick was just out of Navy and decided to open a little diner across from the River Station freight yards. Known for serving bone-in ham at the horseshoe counter, customers started calling the little cafe the “Ham House.” After a successful run, Nick sold his diner to a couple of LAPD detectives who put in a train that ran around the ceiling. After many good years, the place fell into dark times–the old rail yards were grown over and the freight buildings were empty. Flash forward to 2009, when the current owner took over. Over 60 years later, Nck’s is still known for the ham, the smiles, and the coffee.

Sandwich at Wexlers

Wexler’s Deli Grand Central Market 317 S Broadway, Los Angeles, CA 90013

Wexler’s Deli stands for three things: tradition, craftsmanship, and quality. Born of a desire to serve classic Jewish deli food made by people who care, Wexler’s uses old-school methods to handcraft their pastrami and smoked salmon. After curing in a special blend of salt and spices, the meats and fish are slowly smoked in-house over apple wood and sliced by hand in front of your eyes. Wexler’s also serves breakfast sandwiches (Cheezy Eggs, Bagel with Lox) and a selection of sides including coleslaw, potato salad, egg salad and tuna salad. Wash it all down with a good old fashioned Chocolate Phosphate or Chocolate Egg Cream.

Mels Deli

Mel’s Deli 548 S. Spring St #114, Los Angeles, CA 90013

This unassuming, counter-service standby is known for its hearty, deli-style sandwiches with an Italian flare. Indulge yourself with the spicy Mel’s Melt (Russak Roast Beef, Habanero, Jack Cheese, Horseradish, Pepper Spread, Dill Pickle). Or settle into the generous Mel’s Italian (Genoa Salami, Mortadella, Capicola, Jamon, Soppressata, Provolone, Homemade Mustard). Other zesty choices include Prosciutto & Burrata (Prosciutto di Parma,  Burrata, Arugula Dressed, Olive Oil, Balsamic Vinegar);  Caprese (House Made Pesto, Fresh Mozzarella, Tomatoes, Balsamic Vinegar), and Muffaletta (Genoa Salami, Mortadella, Provolone, Olive Tapenade, Mayo, Lettuce, Tomato, Onion). Delivery is available through these apps: Postmates, DoorDash, Caviar, Grubhub, Eat24, and ForkSpot.